What is Natural Dyeing? A deep dive into the age old practice of making dyes with nature’s materials and how to use them
It just occurred to me that with all the articles I have written about dyeing with natural plant materials, I have not covered the very basics: What exactly is natural dyeing, what materials are used and how do you use them.
So, today I would like to get back to basics and explain to you what is meant by “natural dye”.
What is natural dyeing?
Definition:
Natural dye is defined as any dye, pigment, or any other substance derived from natural sources such as plants, animals and minerals are renewable and sustainable bioresource products with minimum environmental impact. (Source: Textilelearner.net)
Natural dyeing is the art of coloring fabrics using pigments that you derive from nature. It is believed to have started over 4,000 years ago, with roots in multiple cultures from India to Egypt and China.
These techniques extract colors from plants, minerals, and even insects, turning ordinary materials into colorful textiles.
For our ancient ancestors, this was a way to bring color to their clothing and maintain a deep connection with their environment.
For us, in the modern era of synthetic dyeing, natural dyeing means celebrating the traditions of our ancestors as well as keeping alive various practices in long ago cultures.
Are natural dyes sustainable?
Unlike laboratory made synthetics, dyes extracted from natural materials are an eco-friendly approach that reduces our chemical footprint. Plant dyes (for the most part) avoid those harsh chemicals, making it kinder to our planet.
Also, when you use natural materials, you are often tapping into renewable resources, flowers and other vegetation that grows relatively quickly.
But, you must know that it’s not all rainbows and unicorns! Natural dyeing requires a lot of water. Not only that but for colorfastness, many dyes need mordants made from heavy metals, that can also be quite toxic.
Some Pros and Cons
PROS | CONS |
---|---|
Eco-Friendly: Uses renewable, biodegradable materials. | Water Usage: Often requires more water than synthetic dyes. |
Low Toxicity: Generally safer for skin and environment. | Color Fastness: Colors may fade faster than synthetic dyes. |
Rich History: Deep cultural and historical significance. | Resource Intensive: Can require large amounts of dye material for deep colors. |
Denim manufacturing results in the release of between 40 and 65 L of effluent per kilogram of denim. According to Greenpeace International, the production of textiles is responsible for 20% of the world’s water pollution
U.S. National Institutes of Health
Where do natural dyes come from?
Okay, so where exactly do you get natural dyes? Mother Nature is quite the artist, and she provides us with an incredible array of dye materials.
From the deep blues of indigo to the sunny yellows of marigold, these colors all have their unique origins.
Sources include many plants, flowers, trees and shrubs, fruits and berries, rocks and minerals, lichen, mushrooms, insects, snails, fish and more.
Plant Sources:
As you probably know, many natural dyes come from plants. Think leaves, roots, tree bark and flowers. Did you know onion skins can give a gorgeous golden hue? Or that avocado pits can dye fabric a soft pink?
Some common dye plants:
- Dyer’s Chamomile (Yellow and Green)
- Hollyhock (Mauve and Maroon)
- Cutch (Orange and Brown)
- Yarrow (Yellow and Green)
- Indigo (Blue and Purple)
- Madder (Orange and Red)
Mineral Sources:
Aside from being used as mordants, many rocks and minerals can also be used as dye themselves.
Some common mineral dyes:
- Clays with oxide (Ochre, Yellow, Red, Brown)
- Limestone (White)
- Manganese (Black)
- Malachite (Green)
- Iron (Rust)
Insect Sources:
Yes, some dyes are made from insects. Cochineal, tiny bugs found on cacti, give us a brilliant red shade which is not easily made with other natural dye materials.
Some common insect dyes:
- Cochineal (Carmine Red)
- Kermes (Red)
- Lac (Violet, Red)
Eco printing or bundle dyeing is a natural dye technique that has gained popularity in recent years. It involves placing leaves, flowers, etc. on a fabric (or paper), rolling this tightly into a bundle and steaming or simmering to transfer the colors.
The Basic Dyeing Process
Okay, so now we know where the colors come from, but how do I actually use naturals dyes to create colorful fabrics and yarn?
After my last 8 years of delving into natural dyeing and eco printing techniques, one thing I can tell you for sure is that all dyers have their own unique way.
And, since there are simply too many different methods and techniques, I am going to give you some basic steps of dyeing with natural materials. There are some tips and tricks, though, that can help you along the way.
Choosing Your Fibers:
It is important that you select natural fibers like wool, silk and cotton, instead of non-natural materials.
Synthetics such as nylon or polyester do not absorb natural dyes very well. Keep in mind that each type of fiber will take up the dye differently, which will have an effect on your final color.
NOTE: Protein fibers (wool, mohair, alpaca, etc.) must be handled very gently to prevent felting which is caused by agitation and extreme water temperature changes.
Preparing the Fibers:
The first thing you need to do is clean your fibers thoroughly to remove any oils, waxes, or impurities. Newly purchased fabric are usually treated with some sort of stain and resistant sizing which you will also want to remove.
Deep cleaning aka scouring usually involves washing with a mild detergent and fully wetting the fibers, ensuring even dye absorption.
This article will show you exactly how to scour or deep clean wool. You can learn how to deep clean cellulose fibers in this article.
Mordanting the Fibers:
In the next step, you will treat the fibers with a mordant of some sort. This is a substance that helps the dye adhere and increases colorfastness.
Most natural dyes will need some sort of mordant to make the dye color, light and washfast. A few materials such as Black Walnut, Oak Galls, Indigo and Pomegranate, which contain a large amount of tannins, do not need a separate mordant.
One of the most common and safe mordants is alum which comes in the form of Aluminum Acetate and Potassium Aluminum Sulfate.
You can learn more about different mordanting techniques here.
A mordant is a chemical binding agent that adheres well to both the fibres and to the dye. The word comes from the Latin mordere, which means to bite.
Prepping Your Dye Materials:
Once you have gathered your materials, you will then need to chop and crush them into small pieces. Next, you want to put your dye pieces into a large, deep cookpot and fully cover the materials with water.
Let this sit overnight. This soaking step is optional but helps to soften and extract the color from the plant.
Safety Note!
Any tools you use for dyeing is no longer safe to use for food prep!
Get your Free Guide . . .
Safety First! Get Your Free Dyeing Safety Checklist
Before you begin any dyeing project, make sure you follow these important guidelines to ensure your process is not toxic or dangerous.
Making the Dye Bath:
After soaking, you will heat the water slowly, just until it starts to simmer lightly. Let it simmer for about an hour or so and then turn off the heat and let it cool.
NOTE: You do not want the dye to BOIL.
Once the water is cool, you need to strain out the plant materials and return the remaining liquid dye to your pot.
Dyeing the Fibers:
Add your pre-mordanted fibers to the dye bath and bring it to a simmer. Heat and maintain the simmer, stirring gently for even dyeing, for about an hour or until the desired color is achieved.
Turn off the heat and allow it to cool naturally.
Aftercare of the Dyed Fibers:
Once cooled, you need to rinse the fibers or fabric gently in cool water until the water runs clear.
For cotton and other cellulose fibers: wash them with a pH-neutral detergent and dry away from direct sunlight to preserve the color.
For wool and other protein fibers: hand wash them very gently with pH-neutral detergent, being careful not to move the fiber around to prevent felting. This article will show you exactly how to properly scour wool and other animal fibers.
Using Color Modifiers
Okay, so if all of that isn’t confusing enough, there is another piece to this color puzzle … MODIFIERS.
A super fun way that you can change the colors of your dyes is with adding a color modifier. A modifier is used to shift the colors of the dye, giving you a wider range of shades and/or colors.
For example, here is piece of cotton fabric and a skein of alpaca/merino yarn that I naturally dyed with avocado pits, resulting in a pale pinkish color.
Then, I dipped the bottom part into an iron (ferrous sulfate) solution which changed the pink to a deep blue.
Here is another example: I made a bunch of dyes from food as an experiment and below you can see the dye I made with red cabbage.
On the left is only red cabbage with nothing added which gave me purple. To the middle batch I added vinegar which turned it pink and on the right side I added some baking soda which made blue-green.
Iron and copper modifiers are actually pretty easy to make at home with this simple recipe.
Common Modifiers:
- Ferrous Sulfate (Iron)
- Copper Sulfate (Copper)
- Baking Soda
- Vinegar
Embracing the Imperfect
Natural dyeing can be a bit like a box of chocolates – you never quite know what you’re gonna get!
But don’t worry, that is part of the magic! A little variation here, an unexpected shade there – that’s all part of the charm. I have also discovered that there is always something new to learn and discover.
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Ready to learn about Natural Dyeing?
Learn the tips and tricks for dyeing beautiful fabric and yarn with natural dyes as well as the most common mistakes to avoid.
Dyeing with a Conscience
One final word and for me, this is the best part: natural dyeing isn’t just good for your soul; it is also great for the planet, too.
Yes, there are environmental concerns but they are dwarfed by the impacts of the synthetic alternative.
Every time we choose a natural dye, we are voting for a greener, more sustainable world. It’s about being mindful of our resources and cherishing the beauty of our planet.
Do you want to learn more?
Check out our favorite resources for further exploration:
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