Natural Dyes that don’t need a mordant

Which natural dyes are mostly colorfast without the use of a mordant? Have a look at these easy to use dye plants that create beautiful colors all on their own.

Today, we’re diving into the vibrant world of natural dyeing without mordants. These particular plant materials can produce a dye that binds to certain materials without needing an extra ‘binder’.

So, what is a mordant?

In a nutshell, mordants are substances that you use in dyeing to fix, bond or adhere the dye colors to a fabric, yarn or other fiber material.

While most dyes from plants, food, etc. need an extra element to act as go-between, there are a few natural dyes you can use that do not require a mordant to create lasting, beautiful colors.

Note: Some of these plants only produce color on specific fiber types such as protein or animal fibers without a mordant. Mordanting may be necessary if you plant to use them on cellulose fibers such as cotton, linen, etc.

A few years back, I shared my experiments in dyeing yarn with black walnuts. Do you remember that?

Well, I’ve been tinkering and learning more about dyeing with a bunch of other natural materials since then and have discovered other materials that can be colorfast, washfast, and lightfast without the need for extra mordants​​​​​​.

What natural dye plants do not need a mordant?

• Black Walnuts
• Hibiscus Flowers
• St. John’s Wort
• Black Tea
• Indigo
• Oak Galls
• Sumac
• Pomegranate Skins
• Chestnut
• Cutch

NOTE: Dyes that do not require a mordant are called “SUBSTANTIVE DYES”

What are Substantive Dyes

Sometimes also called “Direct Dyes”, these are the natural plant dyes that contain sufficient natural tannins which allow the color to stick to fibers all on their own without the need for an extra mordant.

Being able to skip a mordant also makes the process much faster, less messy and more environmentally friendly.

According to Encyclopedia.com: “Substantive dyes bond with a fiber without the use of a mordant or they contain tannin, a natural mordant.”

Before you begin any dyeing project, make sure to see our dyeing safety tips!

Examples of Substantive Dyes:

Black Walnut

Walnut hulls are known for their high tannin content, making them effective as both a dye and a mordant.

The tannins in walnut hulls naturally fix the dye to the fibers, producing rich, deep browns that are colorfast and enduring without the need for an additional mordant.

Dye colors possible: Light to dark brown

Hibiscus Flowers

These vibrant dark red and pink blooms are more than just a pretty sight; they are a natural source for mordant-free dyeing.

Hibiscus flowers can be used fresh or dried without a mordant on animal fibers to produce pink, maroon and lilac shades.

Note: Using a variety of mordants with this dye plant will produce different shades and colors.

Dye colors possible: Pink to maroon

Black Tea

Black Tea is a wonderful dye material if you are a beginner who wants to get started with natural dyeing. It is super easy to come by at your local market and can be used in your kitchen without any special safety consideration.

The reason black tea can be used as a mordant-free dye lies in its high tannin content. Tannins are natural compounds that have the ability to bind color to fibers directly.

The result is a range of warm, earthy tones that can be achieved directly on the fabric.

Dye colors possible: Cream, tan to brown

Indigo

Indigo is a very unique plant among natural dyes as it produces the elusive deep blue to violet colors which were much revered in the past. It’s been used for thousands of years across various cultures around the world.

Indigo is also known for its durability. The color doesn’t fade quickly, which makes it great for items you wash frequently. Think about denim jeans – they used to be made with indigo dye because it can handle all the wear and tear.

You can make indigo dye yourself from the leaves of the plant or you can buy the ready made powder.

Dye colors possible: Light blue to deep blue to purple

Oak Galls

What are oak galls? Oak galls are growths on oak trees, created when certain insects lay eggs in the tree’s branches or leaves, causing the tree to produce tannin-rich, round-shaped swellings.

Oak galls are rich in tannins, which can act as both a colorant and a mordant. When combined with other natural dyes, oak galls can modify hues, often creating darker or more muted tones. This means they not only give color to your fabric but also help other dyes bind to the fabric more effectively.

See here how I dyed cotton with acorns.

Dye colors possible (oak galls alone): Light to dark beige or gray tones

Sumac

Sumac is another plant that is rich in tannins. All parts except for the roots of sumac can be used for dyeing. Dye baths made from leaves and bark will produce soft yellows and greens.

Note: Alum can be added to sumac bark as a mordant to make a bright orange.

In addition to being a dye by itself, you can use Sumac as a mordant for other plant dyes that lack tannins.

Dye colors possible: Tan to yellow and orange

Pomegranate

The lovely, red Pomegranates that you find at your local market actually makes a wonderful natural dye! Pomegranate skins also contain high levels of natural tannins, similar to black tea and oak galls.

When you use them for for dyeing, pomegranate skins impart subtle yellows and cream color to the fabric without an additional mordant.

Dye colors possible: Yellow to ochre

Chestnut

Chestnuts are another source of dyes that are rich in tannins and therefore naturally bond with fibers.

You can achieve nice warm, yellow to tan and brown shades on a variety of materials including wool, silk and cotton which makes it a very versatile dye plant.

Plus, adding common mordants, such as alum, will give you added depth of color. Note: adding an Iron modifier, will shift the final color to warm gray.

Dye colors possible: Yellows to browns

Cutch

Cutch aka Catechu is extracted from the heartwood of Acacia trees and is known for its warm, reddish-brown hues. It is rich in tannins and mainly used to dye silk and cotton fabrics.

The tannins make it possible for you to dye without using a mordant, however, when you add a copper mordant, you get a khaki color that was used for military uniforms.

Dye colors possible: Orange to reddish brown

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There you have it. Those are some of the dyes that don’t need a mordant to be fairly colorfast, lightfast and washfast. Please keep in mind, each dye plant ages differently and most, if not all, will fade to some degree.

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Natural dyes that don’t need a mordant