Learn how to scour or deep clean cotton, linen and other cellulose fibers at home before dyeing them.
If you have ever dyed fabric, especially with natural dyes, then you know that one factor of success in achieving strong, even color is to start with completely clean fabric.
Does this mean fabric washed in washing machine? No! We think the washer gets our clothes totally clean but it honestly does not.
That is why, to get a good even coverage with your dyes, it is very important that you deep clean your cellulose fabric such as cotton, linen, bamboo, etc. first. So, read on for step by step instructions on how to scour fabric at home.
What is Scouring?
Scouring refers to thoroughly washing or deep cleaning an item. This is a good first step whenever you plan to dye fabric especially with natural plant dyes.
The scouring process is more involved than simply washing your fabric in a washing machine.
And while you can scour in a washer (see below), to get your cellulose fibers thoroughly clean, I recommend the stove top method that I will show you in this tutorial.
Most fabric dyers have their own method and preferred products for scouring … some use Soda Ash while others like Washing Soda. Some prefer to use a special detergent such as Synthrapol while others like Blue Dawn.
My point is, don’t feel like you have to run out and buy specialty soap if you already have something on hand. Just experiment and see what works for you. This is simply my preferred method.
If you are a thrifter like me, then you probably get most of your fabrics and shirts for dyeing at your local Goodwill or second-hand store.
And while some of these thrifted clothes are already washed, you will certainly want to make sure of that and wash them again, right?
So, now you washed them in the machine, why do you also have to scour those fabrics? Because the washing machine does not remove all of the dirt. Grease or ground in grass, for instance are really hard to remove.
Also, not only does the washer not remove all dirt, but it also leaves behind traces of left over detergent and fabric softener. And, if you use dryer sheets in the clothes dryer, those leave a residue as well.
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Fabric Scouring Instructions
1. Mix Washing Soda with Water
First, measure out approximately 2 Tablespoons of Washing Soda per each gallon of water that you will use.* Pre-dissolve the soda in a bit of water and then add it to the cook pot. Finally, add the rest of the water and 2 or 3 squirts of detergent
* How many gallons of water will you need? Figuring this out is not an exact science. It depends on how much fabric you have to scour as well as the size of your stock pot.
Normally, I just pile up the fabric that I will be scouring to see about how much space it will take up in the pot. Always add more water than you think you will need. The fabric should be able to be stirred and moved around in the pot.
2. Bring the water to a boil
Now, place the shirts, towels and other cellulose fabric in the water and push it down to submerge. Turn the burner to ‘High’ and bring the water to an easy boil. Once it is boiling, turn heat down and simmer for 2 – 4 hours, stirring occasionally.
Yes, that seems like a really long time but the longer it cooks, the cleaner your cloth will be.
After a while, you will notice the water turning brown and nasty!
3. Rinse the fabric
Once the fabric has simmered for the allotted time, turn off the burner and allow the water to cool. Finally, all you have to do is rinse your shirts and towels thoroughly and then hang them to dry.
Note: You can dry your fabrics in the clothes dryer but don’t add any fabric softener sheets.
Your cleaned fabrics are now ready to dye! The next step in the natural dyeing process is to mordant your shirts and towels to properly receive the dyes. You can learn more about how to mordant cellulose fibers in this article.
When you are ready to dye your freshly cleaned shirts, check out How to Dye with Dandelions, Dyeing with Black Beans and Natural Dyeing with Black Walnuts and Acorns.
I hope this tutorial is helpful. If you have any questions or need clarification of any of the steps, please leave a comment below.
Why do you have to clean new fabrics?
Brand new cotton shirts may not have the old dirt or leftover detergent, but they are often pre-treated with starches which can hamper the absorption of natural dyes or mordants. Therefore, it is always a good idea to scour new fabrics as well.
Can you scour fabric in the washing machine?
The short answer is that yes, of course it is possible to scour your cellulose fabric in the washer.
Simply, run the longest wash cycle with Hot Water, substituting Washing Soda for your regular detergent. However, it is not the method I recommend for the following reasons:
- Most tap water does not get hot enough
- The washing cycle is too short
How do you scour wool?
Scouring wool is a bit different than scouring cellulose fabric because wool aka animal fiber is subject to felting (when the fibers get entangled and matted together).
To thoroughly wash or scour wool without felting it, you have to minimize agitating it (moving it around) and extreme temperature fluctuations.
This tutorial shows you step by step how to properly wash or scour protein fibers such as wool.
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